When it comes to controlling your model trains on the tracks, you are pretty much left with two choices: Analog control and DCC (Digital Command Control). There are vast differences between these two methods of controlling your trains on the track, and here we'll look at them and discuss what you may need for your layout.

Firstly, a definition of the two terms is in order. Analog control works by having the power pack send a variable voltage charge into the track, which is picked up by all the locomotives you have on your track, causing them to have motion. Their motors and lights are fed this current directly through their wheels which are in contact with the tracks. If more current is served up, your engine will go faster. If you reverse the polarity, the train will change direction. So in essence when you have analog control all you are ever really controlling is the current which goes into the tracks, and you are only able to have one system going at once.

DCC is another animal. The booster puts a constant current into the track, and each engine is controlled by means of a decoder, which receives its signals from the command station. The commands are specific to that locomotive only, and  the other trains on the track don't respond to it. This opens up a world of possibilities. The lighting effects you can utilize are numerous: strobe, ditch, mars, cab and others. You are able to program in many more sounds, and control them from your console. You have complete control over your turnouts and uncoupling. All of this is controlled by a computer, and the ultimate upside to all this is that your layout operates much more like a real railway, with trains going at different speeds, crawling to a gradual stop, even matching prototype acceleration and deceleration profiles with a few keystrokes. You can adjust the speed vs. throttle curves for each locomotive independent of the others, giving you the ability to match each other. You can even introduce speed stabilization, and your decoder senses the speed of the locomotive for you and adjusts the power to the train.

A typical DCC system consists of a power supply, decoder, throttle, command station and a booster. Most all DCC systems have at least a 14 speed step control, but both 28 speed step and 128 speed step are becoming more and more available. You can imagine the possibilities with 128 speed step.  One of the best things about a DCC system is that parts and systems are all interchangeable. If the company you bought from goes out of business tomorrow your railway is still rolling. DCC wiring is fairly straightforward and simple, and it is possible to convert an analog track to DCC , thus ridding you of the headache of complex analog wiring and block assignments.

One tip to note is that if you are thinking of converting to DCC try and do it as early as you can in your journey. If you have or anticipate having a large yard of locomotives and complex layout it could be something of a chore to convert so many locomotives and tracks to DCC. Just food for thought. If you are already in that position, carefully weigh the possible advantages and decide if it's worth the time and expense. DCC can certainly bring more realism and fun to your layout. Give it a good look!

Atlas Model Railroad Co. will distribute four new Masterpiece Ho model vehicles in August , 2007, in three different paint and body schemes each. All of these prototypically correct ready to go models will be priced at between $14.95 and $16.95. Here's a look at what's coming down the pike!

Austro Daimler - Three models, the 1908  (Maja engine), 1914 (top up) and 1914 (top down) Austro Daimler was one of the worlds first automobile manufacturing companies, and today an Austro Daimler is quite a rare find.

1936 Chrysler Airflow Imperial Eight -  In three versions, the Skytint Blue, Harvard Maroon, and Gunmetal Gray, the Chrysler Airflow Imperial Eight was the first production automobile to incorporate streamlining into its design, as well as other safety and handling features like a full-steel perimeter frame.

2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited - Presented in white, red and green, the 2007 Jeep Wrangler is so popular you kind of wonder why they didn't hit on this one a little sooner. While they've gotten away from the traditional two-door design (now four) it does look ever more like an SUV, this vehicle has more than doubled  in sales since it's introduction, and proudly carries on the more than 65 year Jeep tradition.

American Walk-In Van - Presented in three formats; white undecorated, Miracle bakery, and Specter Linens, this van is suitable for layouts from the 1960's onward. You'll find many uses for them, as they are in use as delivery trucks, bread trucks, linen supply trucks and even Police and Fire Department Special operations.

These Masterpiece models will add authenticity to any layout; but not until August!

There are many ways and materials with which to model water, either still or moving, on your model railroad layout.  Understanding the nature of this water, (be it river, stream, pond, ocean, etc.) is essential to getting a grasp on just how you want to go about  modeling it, and the material you'll want to use. Here we'll look at not only some of the materials, but their relative ease of use, and lifelikeness.

I'm assuming here that your eventual aim in modeling this water is to create as lifelike a scene as possible on your model railway, so as to capture some of the natural drama that real bodies of water relate. A raging river, crashing ocean or waterfalls make for some memorable scenery, and are worth the challenge involved. Actually, modeling water itself isn't necessarily the hard part here: it's the planning and preparation that will make the difference in the end. Take or acquire as many reference pictures as you can. These will be invaluable.

Once you've settled on the exact picture in your mind, begin by preparing the base of the water by making sure the surface is leak-proof, clean, and filled with whatever you'd like to model on the water's bottom. (rocks, fish logs, etc.)

There are quite a few ways to create water for your model train layout. Here are some, and something about each:

• Real Water - Not really an option; as it is extremely high-maintenance and does this thing called evaporate! Plus, water and the electricity used to run your model railroad don't mix well.
• Envirotex - A little bulky to mix, but makes some great looking waves!
• Casting Resin - Undoubtedly the best-looking finish, but toxic fumes and laborious coats make it only for the most patient craftsmen among us.
• Acrylic Gloss - Also good-looking, but also labor intensive.
• Plaster H2O - Good for unclear bodies of water, but hard to see any depth.
• E-Z Water - Looks good, but a little difficult to work with.
• Acrylic Ceiling Tile - Inexpensive and easy, only it doesn't show any depth or "wetness".
• Acrylic Shower Door - Ditto above, though simple, not very real.
• Gloss Paints - While cheap and very photo-friendly, in real-life it doesn't look very much like water!

Give special attention to the shores and banks of your bodies of water. Make sure to look at your photos to note the color differences, as well as the changes in color from near the shore to the middle of the stream, lake, river or whatever you're trying to depict. If it's deeper, it's darker!

You can create effects like waves and falls and ripples with gels and other commercial products, and a little paint.

Modeling water effectively can make for a stunning model railway layout that will draw raves from all who see it!

While this story certainly tugs at your emotions, it got me to thinking about the changing nature of the business hobby shop owner find themselves in these days. While Wold's Hobbies during their 30 years of serving their community certainly made an impact, serving even second and third generation modelers, Chet Wold's statement that 'the internet killed our business' has to be taken with a grain of salt.

While it's no doubt true that many people nowadays buy their parts and pieces on the internet, it's probably also true that any local hobby shop that hasn't embraced this change in a way that could make some sense for them is likely headed for the same outcome as the Wolds. Even though many, especially those who've worked as a traditional retail outlet for so long are unlikely to dive headlong into the web, even some of the most long-established retailers have a web presence. It's really getting to the point that if you don't have some sort of a web presence, even if it's merely local, you'll have a tough time competing. Chet Wold laments that the when he started, people would build all sorts of projects, but now seem to opt more for the ready-to-go models.

I hope the Wold's find what they're seeking in their retirement, and escaping the day to day world of retailing will be certainly be a relief. Is this where hobby shops are headed? Or will they evolve? Food for thought…

These days you can certainly buy all the forest you can carry home for your model railroad layout. You'll probably end up enhancing those pieces and wishing you'd either done it all from scratch in the first place or at least had given it some more thought. Point is, while you can get some good basic trees from the ready-made material, the ability to make these even more realistic and to make trees from scratch is an art you'll want to get good at!

One of the first things to think about when planning your trees and forests, is to not only pinpoint the area you'll be modeling, and the trees common to that area, but the time of year, weather depicted.  You must also include any other stressors on the trees, such as a logging operation, highways, developments and the like. Each of these and other factors like them will tend to make a difference on not only how your forests grow, but how many trees, and the condition they're in as well. Each forest has several different types of trees, and while one type might be predominant, be aware that the different types exist alongside another, each with their own condition and growth rates.

You can make trees with any number of materials, such as balsa wood, wire, twine and more. There are many techniques to make all different sorts of trees. The trick is knowing exactly what you would like to depict, and to determine the best way to make that particular tree. Pine trees for example can be made with a length of wire, manila twine, rubber cement and model foliage. While this can produce some stunningly realistic trees, it can also take some time. Allow for that, though, as it is definitely worth it when you see the results. Setting up an assembly line process for your forest may be a good idea, as it will allow you to compartmentalize some of the work, and maybe save some time. This is especially helpful if you're modeling a few types of trees in your forest. Before long you'll have a stand of trees that will be ready for planting!

When considering how and where to plant your newly 'grown' trees, there are several things to keep in mind. First, when looking at your photos or real-life scene you are modeling, pay particular attention to the vegetation and ground cover you find on the forest floor. Underneath a forest canopy will be very different from the edges of the tree cover, so take notice. There are many commercially available ground coverings, as well as natural products (like dirt!) you can use as well. Experiment with the look you get, don't be afraid to weather and paint your ground, and remember that most forests have not only some dead trees, but some fallen or broken trees, and if depicting a logging operation, plenty of stumps.

I find it advisable to work one section of your layout at a time, allowing for the scenery to evolve and grow. This can only work, however, if you stick to your original plan. Making trees from scratch is a real art, and one of the most rewarding scenery projects you can undertake, as you'll certainly understand when you look upon your newly-finished forest!